Historical (but still in print)
Chiang Yee, The Silent Traveller in Edinburgh (1948).
A whimsical view of Edinburgh from a Chinese writer.
Robert Louis Stevenson, Picturesque Notes (1879).
Nobody describes the character, topography or weather better.
Henry Cockburn, Memorials of His Time (1856).
A first-hand account of life in the capital during the Age of Enlightenment.
Robert Chambers, Traditions of Edinburgh (1824 & 1868).
Anecdotes of 18th century Edinburgh and the characters who lived there.